Also known as Bandhej, Tie & Die is one of the most widely accepted and traditional method of textile printing in India. The technique is originally from Rajasthan and Gujarat. The colors that are traditionally used in the process are vibrant with yellow, black, red and green being the predominant ones. This technique is used on lighter shades of browns, turquoise, blue and pink giving a stunning effect.

Though simple, tie & die is quite time consuming and tedious process. A single piece of cloth, with intricate bandhej design, takes more than a week to prepare. In this process, each section is carefully dipped in paint and tied again to bring yet another contrast in color. Usually the women are assigned to the fine craft of tying while the men prepare the dye.

Elaborate bandhej patterns depicting birds, animals and human figures are made through this long process. The tie and dye (bandhej) work is done on saris, salwar suits, kurtas and dress materials.

On the basis of design and motif, different patterns have their special significance. The chandokhni and chikhara are specially designed for brides. The barah baag is a pattern, which is when opened looks like a garden of flower. Earlier, there was a design called bavan baag, but today, no one makes it as it takes too much time and labor.

A network of branches and leaves interwoven with different types of birds, Ambadal is a design that represents the branches of a mango tree. The basant bahar represents the flowers of spring season, the mor zad - a peacock pattern, etc. Chokidal is a design that showcases squares with elephants and other animals. And then there is kambaliya - a design, which represents a dotted pattern in the center and a distinct design along the border.

All the design patterns mentioned above are traditional. Any new designs, which a modern day craftsman creates, are called fancy.